[OrRando] PBP 2007 ride reportage
Philippe Andre
philippe_cycliste at hotmail.com
Fri Aug 31 12:59:56 PDT 2007
Philippe Andre's ride report:
This ride couldn't be more different than the 2003 version. How many riders
decide to ride PBP on the Sunday before registration? Probably a few like
me. I was still debating the idea with my fellow OR Randonneurs at the Down
the Drain 200. Del and Mike Bingle kept on saying you want to do it, go on.
What devils they are. So the next day when I found a ticket on United
Airlines for 50,000 frequent flier miles I thought oh s_ _t all the doors
are opening up. Work was slow, I had entered the event just in case, I had a
place to stay in Paris, and I new the ropes. I reserved a room at my
favorite Breton hotel near Loudeac. But I still debated. I had just returned
from a three week vacation to France with Jill and frankly I was tired of
international airports, cramped airplanes, and tourists. What about Business
class? 80,000 miles?? OK, Let's GO!
I had a nice little house on the west side of Paris 20 minutes from Saint
Quentin by train to myself as the owner, my friend, was still on vacation.
In fact the whole neighborhood seemed on vacation. It was hard to find a
pain au chocolate because all but one local boulangerie was closed for the
month of August for vacation. I did find plenty of fine quality food and
managed to cook for myself all my days in Paris. Beats eating out and way
cheaper too.
Monday August 20th soon came around. Michael Wolfe came over to the house
about lunch time to hang out and take a knap before the evening start. We
had our last supper together and headed for the train for Saint Quentin. We
saw the first waves of 80hour riders go off at 8:00 pm and then Michael was
soon off at 9:00 pm to start with the tandems and velos a coucher(that's the
french description of a recumbent). Now for the 4000 or so 9:30pm 90hour
riders. We go off in waves of 500 riders at 15 minute intervals. I lucked
out and ended up in the first wave fifth row. Oh my word, I looked around
and picked out some good wheels to follow. I only had 50 riders in front of
me, and I expected some jockeying for the front right from the start based
on 2003. The start wasn't too bad actually, but I still wanted to be at the
front ASAP to avoid an early crash in traffic. Out of the third turn I was
third row with four riders left in front behind the pace car that escorts us
out of Saint Quentin up to the 13Km mark. And that's where I stayed just
freaking out that I was at the front of this mad horde of velos.
When the pace car pulled off the speed went up to about 34 to 36km per hour
and I couldn't resist to play at the front. At about 30km I was 6th wheel,
when the 7th wheel lost control of his bike on a speed bump and crashed hard
in front of the rest of the field. I don't know if anyone else fell, but I
just thought how close to the front do you need to be for security. Note to
self: Know where is completely safe especially at night on foreign roads.
After about an hour of mixing it up at the front I realized what a nut case
I am and that this was not sustainable. So I decided to back off into the
pack and chill. Still riding in the front 20 I thought about dropping way
back, but I was having way too much fun. After a few hours I noticed a table
beside the road and a family serving bottled water to passing riders. I
pulled out of the pack for a bottle and then chased back on only to hit one
of those nasty speed bumps myself. The bike was making a few noises after
that that concerned me more than riding with the lead group. We just passed
100Km with this group at an average speed of 30.5kph. That was with a 13km
neutral start. That's as fast as I go on a 100km training ride with the boys
back home without a ten pound bag on board. So I decided to let them go at
105km. There were only 30 riders left in the group when I watched them sadly
disappear into the night.
I felt strangely alone now with the odd recumbent and tandem on the road
with me. I stopped to take off my rain jacket as I was wet from the inside
more than from the outside. The weather was good for me at this point: the
roads were wet, but the rain was behind me for now. When I stopped know one
was around and it was soooo dark that I thought I was lost and off course.
Minutes passed by until I saw a couple riders to confirm I was ok. Phew!
Minutes later I hooked up with what seemed to be a solid group of tandems.
Nice! ...soon after I noticed a sign that did not include Mortagne (our next
destination), so I started looking back for lights, no lights, no lights, I
stopped, no lights. The tandems disappeared into the night and so I retraced
our route back 3km to the course and now I'm back in the field again. At
least I won't get lost for awhile with all these other riders around.
The ride was uneventful from Mortagne to Tinteniac. I slowed way down to my
usual pace of 25km per hour, I stopped at all the controls to eat as much as
possible. I did not experience the long lines that later starters ran into.
I was well ahead of the hordes. I remained alert through the lush
countryside. The weather in Brittany and Normandy has been cold and wet all
summer. The roads were wet and I was glad to have my fenders, I was a
little cold at times, more from the sweat produced by my rain gear. I wore
heavy duty leg warmers throughout the whole ride to protect my knees from
the effects of the cold, wind, and wet. There was a moderate headwind during
the daylight hours.
Then the rain came down in bucket loads for a full hour between Tinteniac
and my hotel where I was to meet up with Michael. I didn't care. I was
laughing as I flew downhill out of Tinteniac. I knew I was going to have a
hot shower soon, warm clothes out of my caradice bag, a warm meal, and
sleep. Is that all you've got I was thinking. Note to self: beware of
overconfidence.
I was very happy to see a familiar face at the hotel. Michael had in fact
been there for an hour and half drying out his clothes with a hair dryer.
This is where speaking the language is worth gold. Madame, I asking the
hotel patron, is there a store where we may dry our clothes? No was the
response, but I will dry your clothes in our machine and I can wash them as
well. Michael was pretty happy about this part, so was I. It was 3:30 in the
afternoon Tuesday and the restaurant was closed, but again the french helped
secure a big plate of pasta for each of us, some ham, and a glass of white
wine to relax and celebrate 390km completed. We slept a couple hours until
Michael couldn't stand my snoring anymore. Note to Michael: Earplugs.
We hit the road at 8:30pm Tuesday and rode through the night arriving in
Brest together at 10:30 the next morning. We had a gorgeous view of the Port
of Brest in full sunshine. The weather during the 40 or 50kms into and out
of Brest were vintage 2003. Really Nice! But now I began to have some
problems staying awake. I was running off the road a few times only to awake
from the rough of the road's shoulder under my wheels. I took a 15 minute
knap at Carhaix, but I don't remember if that was on the way out or on the
way back. Ok, It's obvious that i'm in a fog during this bit, but I'm
pounding down the food at the controls and everything else is going real
well. We return to Loudeac by 9:00pm to eat and sleep. We covered about
390kms in 24 hours. That was probably 6 hours off the bike eating/resting
and 18 hours riding. No complaints other than everything seems to be in slow
motion.
At 11:00pm Wednesday it was pouring with rain at Loudeac. Michael with some
persuasion and I checked into the infamous dorm at Loudeac to sleep until we
woke up or the rain stopped. Michael woke up at 1:40 am when the rain
stopped and was off to the races. I woke up 20 minutes later. I left Loudeac
about 2:30am following some tough dutchmen. I say that because these guys
had nothing but a tube in their jersey pocket, no helmets, no leggings.
They were friggin monster strong. I thought I might catch up to Michael
following these guys. Remember how I was laughing about the rain between
Tinteniac and Loudeac on the way out. Well its cold 9 degrees Celsius, its
raining on and off, its really dark, helmet headlight malfuctions, one of
two E6 headlights malfuctions, and I've just snapped my rear derailleur
cable 36kms past Loudeac and 48kms from Tinteniac. Oh boy I'm not laughing
now. The next two hours is a hill interval session like no other. I actually
had a replacement cable with me, but I had never attempted to replace the
cable myself. I wasn't about to do it now. So I block off one rear cog with
the derailleur to give me a 39 x 14 at the secret control that I came
across. The controllers said the hills weren't to bad, but there was one
bad one leading back into Tintineac. I'll never laugh on that hill again,
I'll never say another word. Made it to T, found the mechanic who for 10
euros fixed my bike while I ate another meal of mashed potatoes, fish, soup,
rice pudding, cheese, and fruit. I would have paid any price to fix my bike.
Tintiniac to Villaines: It was a relief to be whole again on the bike with
all my gears and a 39x29. However, i was going off the road again several
times nodding off and decided it was prudent to stop and sleep along the
road like so many of us do. I found a covered porch on some public building
and slept for 30 minutes or so. It helped. I stopped everywhere I could at
the roadside restoration stops that the locals provided. As I was riding
mostly alone, the conversation with the locals seemed to wake me up or was
it the coffee and crepes. The people were so charming and kind it brings
tears to my eyes when I think of them and how they encouraged us to continue
when all I wanted to do was sleep in a ditch. Yea I visited the crepe Guy.
I'll send him a postcard. Note to self: he knows the Blazers.
Villaines: I love Villaines at 1000kms completed. When you arrive there, you
are made to feel like a rock star, or you just finished Alp d'Huez, the
crowds were 3 deep around the bike pit. When I got off my bike I felt 10
feet tall. I went over and talked to the locals behind the barriers when I
arrived and before I left. The energy they give you is almost overwhelming.
I blasted out of Villaines for Mortagne. I nailed those hills with that
familiar 39x14 for old times sake and blew by everyone in sight until I got
to the bottom of the last climb to Mortagne. At 9:30pm Thursday I saw this
guy standing beside the road forlorn looking just holding his bike up,
looking depressed. I asked him if he was alright. He replied he was not. So
I stopped to see what I could do. He said he was Creve (that's wiped out, no
energy). He was without food. He was from the 80hr start group so he was
like 7.5 hours ahead of me on the road. He had water and 2 kms to go to the
control at Mortagne. I gave him a bar, I expressed that I thought he was
doing very well indeed and that there was no need to panic, but if he
couldn't ride his bike he must then walk to Mortagne. At Mortagne he could
get a massage, eat, sleep, and then continue in the morning. No problem I'm
thinking in 10 minutes he'll be back on his bike because no cyclist likes to
walk. I informed the controllers of the mans situation and they sent a car
out to check on him. Unfortunately #5180 abandoned at Mortagne as did about
1500 other riders along the route(30% DNF). It was a very hard year. The
tribulations that everyone experiences were made that much more mentally
challenging than usual because of the brutal weather from start to finish.
At about 11:00pm Thursday I returned to the road to Dreux. I had a horrific
time trying to stay awake. If I had a space blanket I would have crashed
beside the road. Instead I stopped numerous times to just close my eyes
while I rested my head on the handlebars. it was 1 or 2 in the morning
Friday. Finally, I'm in Dreux. Sleep is in order again for a couple hours.
I could have used some motivation from Villains.
I left Dreux about 5:30 in the morning only to have a flat just as I'm
hitting the road out of town. Its a rear of course. So I take care of it in
about 25 minutes. Everything is in slow motion you know. I catch on to 3
italians when I get back on the road, but I sense a problem with the rear
tire. Like maybe the tire or tube is not properly on the rim. So I stop to
check out the side walls of the tire, etc. Everything looked ok, I just
didn't want to take any chances. Back on the road I see some lights in the
distance that I chase. I thought it might be the italians, but instead its 3
Basques and 2 Dutchman going in circles around a roundabout. They're lost. I
guess I am too. But, before I can do anything a car appears out of the
night. The driver roles down his window and starts asking the dutch boys
where do they think they are, to which they reply that they are lost. They
follow his car and we all follow them. When we get to the next traffic
circle the guy roles down his window, points to the sign that points us back
to Paris and says don't do it again. Here's the thing, those guys were
speaking dutch, and I 'm certain I understood every word they said. Note to
self: sleep deprivation may enhance foreign language skills.
Back on the road my young team of Basques and Dutch swept up the road until
we had a sizable pack strung out across the long fields moving swiftly
towards the finish. The first rays of the morning gave me goosebumps as I
new that now within 40kms of the finish we had made it, that we were riding
strong and fast, that there would be no more fatigue before the end, only
beaming smiles from myself and my young compatriots.
My goal was to finish while profiting from as much of the PBP experience as
possible: I finished my second PBP in 83h13m. 9 hours more than 2003. I had
some mechanical tribulations, a spot of fatigue, got lost a couple times,
used every opportunity to meet the local people who support the PBP riders,
and I used most of my 90hrs. I could have used more of the clock. So I guess
there is room for improvement in 2011.
Bon Courage et Bonne Route
Philippe
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